I think that change of scenery I wanted arrived sooner than usual, as the arrival into the Czech Republic brought a little something new. Again this is the new Europe and the only thing that told us we crossed the former 'iron curtain' was a town called Berclav which sounded more Slavik than Germanic. Also we noticed the train guard changed to a blue uniform and spoke in what was probably Czech. The landscape in our 3 hour journey to Prague changed a little from the flat lands of Austria to a more wooded / forested picture. When we noticed buildings you could occasionally spot the familiar sign of soviet architecture of the apartment blocks and square fabricated concrete, which we sneer at now but forget how quickly this housed people. In all you realised you had come somewhere new. I also had a quick memory flash. I think from reading news events recently Czech, like Britain is not part of the Eurozone and quickly set about getting some idea what the deal is with money which I remembered to be Czech Krony. I have this neat little app which I like to look at now and again which gives detail of countries, in it I found that as of 2010 one US Dollar equals KCZ 19. This was vague but the best we had to go on.
On arrival at Prague station we only had EUR30 on us so needed some local cash. But how much. "Oh get out 40" Sarah said. "That may only be $2 hun". From there we went the long way round and looked into a shop and saw a drink for KCZ 40 and decided that a drink would cost about £1 so we decided we needed to draw out about KCZ 1000. On approaching the ATM, we noticed an exchange rate which meant our maths was pretty good, and this would have put £35 in our pocket. From there we had to get to our hostel which was by no means central. As with all things it seems easy on paper and internet. But internet doesn't show you complicated ticket machines. My first little moan about Czech is for a country that has such high denominations of currency, a ticket machine accepting notes would be a fantastic idea, instead of breaking down KCZ 100, or in our case a KCZ 1000 as the ATM gave me. I'm going to extend this moan a bit. Now Britain has a £50 note, but never has an ATM ever given one out. I've handled £50 notes rately in my life, and most notably not since 2006 when I my landlord wanted his £850 a month rent in cash. The banks don't give them out as the are a pain in the arse to get rid of. Why then has every ATM in Europe given me EUR50 notes or on one occassion a EUR100. Moan ended. Anyway I've just noted how that moan has overly padded out this paragraph and lets just say we successfully negotiated the 3 line underground of Prague and the 1 stop tram ride to the hostel and got our room. Time to check out the city.
The time was probably about 7ish when we headed out, and found our way into Central Prague. I wanted to see one thing only. A sort of bucket list - Charles Bridge. We took the tube (does anyone mind if I refer to undergrounds as 'the tube'? the London name for the subway is the clearest and quickest to type) to the stop Mustek and on ascending to the surface we found ourselves on Wencelas Square. I very long rectangly square with a castle at one end which looked magnificent. We then headed towards the old town square through more winding streets until we found the square and what a wonderful little medieval thing it was too. Still I wanted Charles Bridge and I knew I was near. However, our old adversary the rain conspired against us and I only had a hoody. We walked, but it became more dark and miserable. I knew I wasn't far, but I could see this wasn't going to be good so I said, lets get something to eat. I will be returning to Prague on the 26th (or day 23), so seeing it will be my priority.
We both wanted beer and goulash and found it in a bistroesque type place in a street just off the old town square. The prices looked right and in we went. Now let me describe the waitress who served us. She was rude little insecure bitch with cheap dyed hair who obviously is effected not only by her ongoing battle with her weight, but resentment that no western men find her interesting enough to bring her to London or New York as they do her prettier friends. We were the victims of her insecurity. Now you know when you aren't sure if you are being snubbed, as its early in the snubbing day? There are a whole room of people to wait on and Chris it isn't all about you. That said the paranoia of being snubbed turned to the reality. Getting her attention through a smile and eye contact was not enough. I had to call her. She took our order in the attitude that we had ruined her day by being customers. When our beers came she bashed them down in anger and knocking Sarahs elbow reasonably hard in the process. The goulash came in a lighter but similar manner. The goulash was great as was the beer, but we were unwelcome for the reason I suspect being our dress, which I'll comment on in a minute. The crowning turd in the waterpipe for me proved to be when she served a bottle of wine to a nearby table and plonked the tray with garbage on ours. I glaired at her, and the manager and this led him to take it off I think. I asked for the bill and wouldn't even consider giving a tip. But withholding a tip isn't enough. I left a tip of 3p, yes 3 British Pence. She said goodbye and thankyou as we left, I ignored her. My comment on the attire issue. We are wearing travelling clothes. My hair is longer and my face is stubbly. It may also be clear that we weren't going to do the 3 courses and bottle of wine (although even if we were, she would have probably put us off). If we aren't dressed appropriately for a place, then don't let us in. I'm a big boy who has gone out clubbing and not felt insulted for being denied entry due to wearing trainers. If however you notice our clothes and continue to allow us entry and serve us, then serve us as equally as you serve those wearing the fake kashmir. What I saw was an absolute lack of class and manners, which offends this Englishman. I'm not hearing this "oh they are different in eastern europe". If they are so different go back to ploughing your field with your goverment owned tractor. You welcome Prague to tourism, act like you want them to stay, because we can just as easily go to Budapest, where I remember waitresses to be more than friendly. Then again, I ate in one place and I'm being very childish and immature if this waitress should colour all of Prague for me, and I won't let it. I will be returning in 2 days and I promise a more balanced and less angry review, no matter how well I'm served goulash.
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