Tuesday, 16 July 2013

Arrival into Haines Alaska


My last post was typed up in the air, probably somewhere over the Midwest. What a great clear day to fly from sea to shining sea. The view got even better as we crossed over Montana, and better still as the plane reached Western Washington State to begin its descent into Sea-Tac Airport. I noticed a couple of downtown areas from the air of the Seattle area, but a closer inspection and I saw the Space Needle, and I immediately got my bearings. As we got down a little lower, Mount Rainier backdropped the cityscape of Seattle perfectly on a clear day, so far from the stereotypical rain of Seattle.

Unfortunately, my time in the Seattle was too short between the connecting flight to Juneau, so I couldn't leave the airport. However, Sea-Tac has changed loads from what I remembered in 1994, and the central food court gave me a wealth of options. I had not eaten since the bagel in JFK. I chose Fish and Chips, and they were not too bad. I think I like the North American idea of Fish and Chips, being large chicken nugget type bites and 4 or 5 of them. And plenty of tartare sauce to dip into. Closer to Scandinavian F&C, than British.

After eating I made my way to gate N1 for my 2:10pm flight to Juneau. My ears pricked up when the announcing ground staff sounded exactly like Sarah Palin. I also noticed many of my co-passengers were guys looking like they were off on an adventure holiday into Alaska, and they would have excellent weather for it.

My assigned seat, 7B, caused the split of two friends. One of the ladies asked if I minded switching. Of course not, I was on my own anyway and I'm never too fussy where I sit. As it turned out she took my middle seat and gave me a window seat next to the emergency door, which had huge legroom. I sat in comfort as the plane took off providing me a view of the majestical Puget Sound Islands. More beautiful than Ha Long Bay in Vietnam I will say. The islands dotted more or less all the way up the North Pacific coast, as we flew into Canadian Airspace and back into US Airspace again.

I formed a conversation with my seat neighbours. Stuart and (sugar I forgot hers). They were off on a fishing vacation, but live in Vegas and both work in tree genetics. A lovely outdoorsy pair. He opened the conversation saying he liked my shoes, a pair of cheap Karrimor walking shoes. He probably thought I was more outdoorsy that I am. Of course they asked my story, and I said I now live in Haines. "How do you like it?" "Don't know, I'm about to see it for the first time". So I described the situation. I shortened the amount of time the wife and I had been apart to last seeing her in February. I didn't want to discuss the separation. In any case they said "that's a long time". I remember Stuart saying "well she must be some girl to some all this way". Of course she is, I thought.

The descent into Juneau was exciting. My father told me about the time he flew into the old Hong Kong Airport and the plane flew between skyscrapers before landing. This was the mountain version of that. You don't expect to be on a Jumbo but seeing the wing so close to the mountains, as you glide into this titchy little airport. An airport you would not believe serves a state capital.

My final flight was scheduled for 7pm from Juneau into Haines, on Wings of Alaska. I managed to talk my way onto the 4:45pm flight, and told Sarah I would arrive about 2 hours earlier than arranged. I knew I was going to exceed my baggage allowance of 70lbs, but not sure by how much. These small planes weigh everything including hand baggage and me. I was charged 50c for every pound over, which came to about $11. Pretty good as I paid $60 for the baggage from JFK to Juneau.

Another thing I noticed and gave me some minor stress, my cheap Sports Direct bag was even more ripped up than when I left in in JFK. I prayed to atheist god for it to just last one more frickin journey. Gladly it did make the last flight without spilling all my clothes and stuff everywhere.

The flight on this small plane was a great experience. The pilot turns round in his 'driving' chair and gives you the safety instructions. He starts the plane up like it is a Mini Cooper, then to the runway and you are off. Once flying, the plane doesn't seem to move fast. It's like you bob in the air. But the views as follow The Favorite Chanel into the Chilkat Inlet (not to be confused with the Chilkoot Inlet - which is right next to it) before bobbing into tiny Haines airport. As the plane was landing I saw Sarah's Suburu Forester pulling into the car park.

As I got out and reached for my bags which are stowed underneath like a National Express coach. I made my way to Sarah who had her dog Horton. We hugged and kissed. Horton was more obsessed with barking at another dog.

The thing I was concerned about was meeting the dog. Dogs are territorial and protective of lady owners. Its one reason I love them. He barked at me a bit in the beginning. I got down as low as I could, and trusted that he wouldn't bite my face off. Maybe making myself vulnerable to him, to show I'm no threat. When dogs play, one dog is dominant and the other submissive, hence the play bow. I thought I'd do the play bow, and it may have worked. By the end of the evening, Horton and I were fine together. He's an amazing dog.

Our house here in Haines is situated on a the Inlet. Out the window are year round snow capped mountains. To the rear of the house is a trail where we took Horton for a walk. Or rather he takes us for a walk as he finds the trail better than even Sarah knows. But I had jet lag and it hit me a bit. Plus I became acquainted with the infamous Alaskan Mosquitoes. They are vicious. I think I passed out on the sofa back at the house. Then came to bed and slept in a patchy way the entire night.

The next day, 15th July, Sarah took me for a drive around my new area. We started for a walk to Battery Point, through a woodland trail. I'm going to refrain from describing the landscape too much and just start by saying it is dramatic and serene all at once. Every now and then I kept asking what the postman from Liskeard, Cornwall is doing here.

We stopped for lunch and a fish and chip van. That's two meals in the USA and both fish and chips. I love the way Salmon is more on the menu than in the UK. Then Sarah showed me how we get the post, which is a PO Box, as the mailman doesn't come to our door. Sarah also showed me her Radio Station and introduced me to her co-workers. They all seem so nice and friendly and welcoming. That goes for some others I met. It seems Sarah has made quite a few acquaintances, and done a good job of stamping her life within the community. Something else I like about Haines, which I will join in on. Cycling seems quite big. Possibly as the roads seldom rise very high, and seem like a cyclists dream. I'm going to get me a bike a.s.a.p. I also noted some bikes with really thick tractor type tires, this must be for year round cycling.

After lunch we took a quick drive to Chilkat Lake (maybe Chilkoot). Again mesmerized by the turquoise waters, the snow peaked mountains, and crystal waterfalls running down the mountains from the melting ice. Captivating!

That evening Sarah took me out to dinner at the local hotel. It's my birthday today, but she has to work, so she gave me a great day the day prior. I tried the local beer Haines Amber, a refreshing red ale. Authentic, but not too bitter and cloudy. I think I will be ok with the local brew.

Today is the first day of a few where I am home alone. I am without transport so I am a bit stuck in the house. I took the dog up the trail and I may do that a few more times today. I am concerned that he runs near the road when returning. I am drinking my Yorkshire Tea with milk, and I feel a bit like Alexander McKeig in Centennial who soothes his solitary state in the Colorado wilderness during the late 18th Century with cups of Lapsang Suchon.

The milk looks like something I have to give up. A small bottle (less than a pint) costs $1.39. Potatoes cost a fair bit, as does much fresh produce. The price we pay for this scenery is covering the cost of transporting food all this way to us.

Also alongside no door to door mail service, neither is our trash picked up. We have to take it somewhere and there is a charge for it. Its inconvenient but I like it. It makes us think about what we throw away and therefore what we consume.

More than anything else, I have to pinch myself that this isn't a holiday and I have to find a job. It looks like I may not be in an office again, which I think suits me fine.

Right now I am typing this occasionally looking out the window at the mountains on the Inlet. Sarah kindly asked her radio show to wish me a happy birthday which I heard just now. That was nice.

I'm sure there are many things I have found out in the last few days which I have forgotten, and there is so much for me to find out. Anyway I am here and all is good.

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