Days 105 to 109. From Ubud to Kintamani to Lovina

Sunrise on the top of Mount Batur

After my special birthday on the 16th we did very little but chill in Ubud. The main activity we did was a bit of a hike on the 18th July along a ridge outside Ubud. The walk was about easy to moderate and once you meandered out the town you follow the ridge and find yourself amongst the rice fields and the picture looks real. Kids playing with catapults, farmers shin deep in paddy fields and stray dogs wandering no where in particular.

The following day we were to catch the 11am bus to Kintamani, the second visit as this was the volcano territory, but a more fullfilling one than prior. As we checked out our kind elderly host invited us to the cremation ceremony on the 28th and said she'd reserve a room for us. We noticed some pre-celebratory activity on setting out on our ridge walk yesterday. A large bamboo platform being raised. Models being made of black and golden cows, and much more. It looked like something big was in the pipe line and this was it. With the preparations going ahead 10 days prior it is no doubt something of note and we will be returning for it.

We joined another couple for the small journey to the Kintamani area. The bus set us down at the village of Penelokan. We wanted the lake area and particularly a small town of Toya Bungkah. This is the place to pick up a trek to the top of the volcano as was our plan. As we stepped off the bus we were greeted by a hawker selling a taxi and a guesthouse. This can sometimes be annoying, but on this occasion it was needed. To give some geography, Penelokan is at the top of this valley (or more accurately the caldera, which I will explain in a bit), the long steep winding road leads to Danau (Lake) Batur and the foot of Ganung (Mount) Batur, the volcano. Actually I'll explain it now as I may forget later in my edgy freestyle way of blogging. The valley / caldera isn't a valley as such it is really the whole volcano. Mount Batur is a volcano within a volcano (a double caldera actually) which has appeared after the last explosion, many many years ago. I'm not a keen or a good geologist so don't expect any ground breaking insight into volcanology by reading further. So, we negotiated a taxi down with a French couple with limited English for Rp50K for all four. The taxi was a truck really. It was a good job the back was open plan as we were being blasted with exhaust fumes and flies the whole way down. The guesthouse we were taken to was perfect in price, Rp100K (£7 or $11) a night. It had a porch looking out just to the mountain but the lake was mostly blocked by other buildings. Still the beds looked comfy and it felt airy.

We wanted to trek the volcano and of course on arrival we were looked for rather than went looking. We were offered for $35 a sunrise trek. This would mean being awake at 3:30am to commence the walk at 4am to be at the top in time for the 6:30am sunrise. This seemed perfect, and I'm glad Sarah and I were both in agreement. So to bed early that night as we were to be up before the cockerel.

Sleeping wasn't easy, it never is when you have to get some sleep to be up early despite the tiredness. Other factors made my sleep patchy. The mossies around the lake were not the quiet kind I'd grown used to. The ones which quietly go about their business in the night leaving you to wake up looking like a leper. These buzzed loudly in your ear. A dog started barking at 2am having some sort of conversation with another dog in the valley. Then about 3am the cockerel started to crow, and pretty much kept going all day. So 3:20am I was out of bed. My clothes were set out neatly, Sarah slept in hers so we were pretty much out the door and on our way at 3:45am.

The group on the rim of the volcano. Edwin in the middle.

Our guide, Edwin, met us and handed us flashlights and water and started us on the trek. The initial hill was tough but you get your stride and your heart realises it needs to speed up a bit and you find it ok. Edwin was a talker and I like to do my exercise quietly. Still I listened to him drone on about how he can get sacked with one bad complaint from a group (don't tempt me). Another French couple were with us and the girl was having trouble with the pace. She wanted frequent stops. I didn't mind when she asked for them as I was too proud to. Still as we started getting nearer, about 30 minutes away I thought the stops she requested were excessive. This made me feel good for Sarah and I. We both thought we were out of shape yet we were fairing better on this trek than a 20-something.

As it got steeper, Edwin made things a little awkward. First it started with a hand up a large step. Or a hand where it was slippy. Then it came to wanting to hold hands in the easier parts. He would help me up a step and as soon as he felt I wanted to let go he'd hold my hand harder like a wierd ex who won't accept its over. I remember walking past a group with him holding my hand like I was the retard of the group, or the fat guy who was about to pass out and it was extremely embarrassing. I was nearly vocally angry at him when I fell to my left. Had my hand been free I would have stopped my fall but holding Edwins hand I couldn't and my hip hit against a rock or a branch and left a painful bruise.

Anyway we made it to the top for sunrise. Looking out over the top of the clouds at other mountains poking out. Seeing the gold and red of the sun tip itself over the clouds will leave and impression which I don't think I have the vocab to do justice to. The light as it came up lit faces orange and most were peacefully looking out over the clouds and sunrise somewhat hypnotised. There were a few Americans or Canadians (I cannot tell accents apart) who were up dancing, smoking and drinking beer. This may seem like a rowdy scene which spoilt the ambience but really it added to it as all were dealing with the sunrise in their own way.

Edwin and his drink selling friend conspired to fuck this mood up for me. His drink selling friend held Sarah's hand to the top and for that he wanted us to buy a bottle of Coke or Sprite. His price was Rp25K (£1.72 or $2.75). I know this may not seem a lot and I look stingy. That is what you would pay in a cinema back home or at Alton Towers Theme Park and this moron has carted them up a mountain. However, here Rp25K buys a large beer in a restaurant. It can also buy a good main course meal. Sarah however was feeling feint and possibly low blood sugar level as she is one of those who must eat on getting up, so climbing a mountain for 2 hours only on water, the sugar from the drink was needed. However, the drink seller asked just as I was about to buy Sarah's drink, and with Edwin the guide in direct earshot; "would you like to buy your guide one also?" I did and was fuming. He asked if I wanted one as I handed over the price of a meal and drinks at the our guesthouse, I said I'd share with Edwin. Edwin drank most of it. I looked envious at the French couple who did not succumb to this sting.

As the sun came up fully the cloud or steam from the volcano enveloped us. We ate our breakfast of banana sandwiches and eggs. Edwin told us a bit about the history of the volcano and eruptions. The last one being in 2000, which claimed some German tourists who set off without a guide. I'm not sure if this is a scary story told by guides to ensure they are needed. What I will say at this stage. If you are aiming to take a trek up to the volcano from Toya Bungka, you can probably do it without a guide. If it's dark be very careful, and of course should you have an injury you are on your own. In daylight the paths are well marked and obvious. Ultimately, how lost can you get? The walk to the top is 3.5km and the destination is obvious from miles away. Also even in the morning, many others are attempting it. Just follow the lights. If you are a somewhat experienced walker, you have good walking boots, some warmth for the top as it is cold at the summit, do it alone and you won't be bothered with Edwin.

Edwin was probably astute in that he noticed as we do that French nationals are the majority around Toya Bungka (and maybe Bali after Australians), and they don't tip. Sarah is American and lordy lordy don't those yanks tip big? God damn it I can't show ma face around 'ere if I ain't the biggest tipper. Son I want ya to tell the world Billy Ray Krazinsky from Diddlybop, Idaho gave you the biggest tip you'd ever seen son, ya hear? Therefore with a yank and Brit (a Brit can go either way), Edwin was sure to lavish his affection on us as that's where his cigarette tokens were coming from. At the top he made things awkward by draping his jumper over my legs. I never asked for nor wanted this. On the way back down as we walked the rim his hand holding extended to Sarah, drawing her in on stories of how wealthy the US is compared to his life, and oh look Edwins shoes are worn out. Anyway he sort of helped us down again. A little hurried in parts and not giving a flying toss whether the French couple (the male of whom was deaf and maybe should have been offered more help) had slipped and broken their legs in 3 places or had their faces eaten by monkeys. Yes there were monkeys up there, nasty ones too, but I'm fed up talking about monkeys.

The only time Edwin waited for all of us was at the restaurant and reception area of our guesthouse. Then for some reason, well lets not kid ourselves we know the reason, he kindly guided us all the way to our bungalows. He stood there and shook hands with us. The French couple (and I genuinely felt affection for them at this stage) shook his hand and walked in doors. Sarah has a genetic problem which means she has to tip, so she asked me inside to grab the toys we got free from Singapore airport for Edwin to give to his poor kids (I don't believe he had any). We handed them to him and Sarah said "do your children want these" the rude bastard just shook his head. "Oh well", said Sarah emancipated from slavery to tipping by this (I hope) "lets get breakfast". He walked with us saying "bye" in a pathetic whining way twice. No Edwin the Rp25K bottle of Sprite was your gratuity at the top. Gladly we saw no more of him, he surpassed the most annoying guide for me since the Inca Trail 13 years ago. Congratulations Edwin.

As annoying as he was and how much I hated him and really wanted him to come to harm, Edwin could not detract from the trek which was magnificent and another thing I will pop in travel memories. The landscape has to be one of my favourites to date.

We realised that we had used muscles we never usually use for about 5 hours now. We made use of the hot springs in Toya Bungkah. There are 3 types. The first two, and most expensive over look the lake. Being budget conscious we had a smaller one with no view, but still the pools heated by the volcano and full of sulphur, perfect for the skin, soothed us the only way you can be soothed after such a trek. It was probably due to this that the next morning, while a bit stiff, my muscles and I think Sarah's too were not as bad as the could have been.

The next morning we left Toya Bungkah for the northern coast. We were heading for Kalibukbuk in the Lovina area. We were drawn to this as it was sea but quieter than Kuta. We chartered a taxi for the whole journey of 2 hours for Rp250K (£17 or $28). Climbing back up the hill from Toya Bungkah to Penelokan we saw the views we couldn't see sat in the truck on the way down smothered with flies. We glanced and saw the volcano we climbed in clear unmisted daylight, and it looked an impressive feat. Not by distance so much as incline. The journey from Penelokan to Kalibukbuk through Bali life. The paddy fields were for Ubud, this was mountain territory first of all. Penelokan reminded me of a watered down, a very watered down Tibet. With its restaurants, some open, some closed down, but all perched over the caldera taking in the unique view of lake and volcanos. We reached Kalibukbuk at mid day. While we enjoyed being back in civilisation with ATMs, tastier food and cheaper beer. As much as I like Kalibukbuk I don't think I will take as much from it as the two nights in Toya Bungkah. We ended the evening of the 21st July and travel day 109 with a meal and traditional Balinese dancing. And yes after two Bingtangs (Bali Beer) and peer pressure from Sarah I got up and joined the Balinese dancer when I asked. I looked a fool I'm sure, in fact I know as I saw the video after. However, I care not.