Tuesday 8 May 2012

Days 31 to 35 - Istanbul

Friday 4th to Tuesday 8th May

Fishermen on Bridge over the Golden Horn
After a wonderful sleep curled up against our rucksacks with a cool breeze entering the open air hostel room we awakened about 10:30am with the obvious idea to look around Istanbul. I remember entering the city at 6 that morning at dusk and seeing everything blue from the Bosphoros to the old walled city. The weather as we started exploring after 10am was not really hot at all. In fact it was perfect for walking around. Ofcourse we had lunch then made our way to the water via this park near Sultanahmet. A bridge spanning the Golden Horn looked worth a closer look. The bottom of the bridge was dotted with mostly fish restaurants and the top of the bridge with gentlemen fishing. Ofcourse, as with many touristy places, making your way through cafe districts is a slow process. Many want you to at least look at the menu, at least have a drink. This can be tricky as you need to know what you want as you aren't really aware whats good at this stage. While you read the menu, you aren't left alone and walking away always feels rude but often necessary unless you have the money and stomach to eat in every cafe. Still I will say (and I don't care I'm making a comparison); if I was to chose between the customer indifference of Eastern Europe (particularly Ms Prague) give me the hassle of Istanbul cafe sellers any day.

Bridge over to Asia
We were also pressured to take a Bosphoros boat ride. Our first sell was Tl 25 each for 1.5 hours. However, on return we found the same for Tl 10. Whether this was the best deal we are unsure, but it was more than half of the first one. The boat ride was intriguing. Particularly approaching the bridge which spans Europe and Asia. This is interesting as many in Istanbul describe the geography or their city as being on the European or the Asia side, as Londoners say North or South of The Thames or New Yorkers East side, West side of Central Park. Its a great landmark to photograph this bridge, although defining Europe is pretty hard. Political Europe doesn't include Turkey. Cultural Europe maybe includes half of Istanbul, as it maybe includes Moscow. Then again if you make Istanbul culturally divide between Europe and Asia at this bridge, then what about the Genoese section on the Asian side? Its a hard thing to work out, but people being people and particularly Chris being Chris we like to see a dividing line between the one and the other. Also as our journey was to be a journey to the edge of Europe this was a symbolic bridge for us I guess.

I'm not going to be as anal on days with this post as we're to spend 5 nights in Istanbul and in that time there were a lot of restaurants and kebabs and drinks and general wandering so I'll do the highlights.

The Blue Mosque was the second mosque I'd been to in my life and I was thoroughly blown away by the size and I guess the ambience and maybe the respect that is required for the place. A very peaceful place which to me reflects what a peaceful religion Islam is, despite what the Daily Mail and Fox News tells us.

The sea, don't hold me back.
On Sunday 6th May we took a short train ride out to a marina / beach town called Yesilkoy. Only Tl 2 each for the tickets out was a steal. The water was too inviting and the fact I had not brought my togs was not to be a barrier. Noticing I was not the only one, Chris stripped to his underwear and to the ocean. Ofcourse after I'd finished my damp pants seeped through and made me look that I'd wet myself (or I'd swam in the sea in my pants).

Yesterday (Monday 7th May) we took a 2 hour boat journey to The Princes Islands. We met up with an American called Richard who joined forces for the day. We negotiated Tl 10 each for a bike for the day. Richards chain broke early into the journey and his second bike was inferior to the Trek they gave him earlier. Still riding a bike was good exercise and fun even is a bit of pushing up the hill took place. The views stunning, and wizzing down hills is always cooling.

Later the hostel had a barbeque which we were invited to. We put the tables out on the streets and behind us everything was grilling and smelling good. A good chance to meet everyone, and have a chat, tell a few bad jokes. This continued into the evening as we found a cafe round the corner and shared a sheesha pipe. The flavour of choice was apple to mix with the apple and with a few drinks this was a good end to the evening.

Today Sarah has caught some tummy bug, and this means I am on my own today. We visited the Cisterns by Sultanahmet. Not only were the old Bysantine / Roman relics a jaw dropping jump into history, but they were very cool which I think Sarah appreciated. The large columns and fish swimming in the pools are really worth checking out, even if you aren't interested in history. I must admit I didn't read much of the information signs or get an audioguide. Sometimes knowing all the details isn't necessary or wanted.

Tomorrow we fly back to London in the afternoon. We have arranged a shuttle to the airport. We are spending little time in London then off to Dubai for 3 days. I think the hotel will be welcomed by Sarah, although there is a night in Heathrow airport before that (although Sarah will fold and need a hotel, I'll wager). Then to Bangkok and another smashing of the senses. The easy part is almost over.

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